Throughout a two-year period during the conflict in Gaza, all public celebrations marking the holiday season were cancelled within the city of Bethlehem in the occupied West Bank. This city is believed to be where the faithful hold Jesus was born.
But, after a recent truce, the holy city determined that this year celebrations would return, as symbolised by the illumination of its traditional, large holiday tree before the ancient Church of the Nativity.
"We have endured two difficult years of silence; no Christmas, no jobs, no work," states Bethlehem Mayor Maher Canawati. "We're all living here on tourism and the tourist trade was down to zero."
He acknowledges that the idea to restart festivities faced some debate, as suffering continues within Gaza – including for members of the tiny Christian community, many of whom have family ties to Bethlehem.
"Certain voices argue it is unsuitable and others say it is fitting," Mr Canawati explains. "But deep inside my heart, I believed that this was the right thing to do since Christmas must never be stopped or cancelled. This is a beacon of hope for us."
A Spark of Festivity Returns
Residents – from both Christian and Muslim faiths – pose for selfies in front of the tree hung with gold and red ornaments at Manger Square. They are accompanied by a handful of international visitors.
Brightly coloured lights now decorate the streets with signs advertising holiday markets and children's parties.
"We are delighted to see the tree, first of all, and to see foreigners to Bethlehem and to have the chance to observe the holiday in its true spirit," says Bethlehem designer Nadya Hazboun.
"This place is where everything began, therefore here is where we can convey a message to the world of what Christmas truly represents. And now, if the season is calm, then I hope it will bring a positive message for the entire world."
Economic Prospects and Difficulties
Nearby towns including Beit Jala and Beit Sahour also intend to light holiday trees in the coming days. Hotels – which have remained mostly vacant for two years – are seeing a rise in reservations from Palestinian citizens of Israel as well as certain international tourists.
A visitor from Russia, named Angelica, is on her second pilgrimage to the Holy Land. "I think everyone needs to come at least once during their lifetime," she says.
"I wish many visitors will return soon as it is sorrowful with few tourists. The sole aspect that is positive is there are no lengthy queues – one can visit and experience more. When I came before you had to wait in a queue for a few hours at least."
Currently, the souvenir stores scattered throughout Bethlehem have little business, and near the pale walls of the Nativity Church, which originate from the Fourth Century, tour guides are mostly unoccupied. Prior to the conflict, it was typically packed with visitors.
"This is a tourist city; without tourism there is no livelihood," laments one guide Hamza. "We aspire to have people coming back as in the past: from Europe, the Middle Eastern region, the Americas, Latin American and all over. We start with lighting the tree, and we'll wait."
The Persistent Economic Toll
In the past two years, joblessness has soared within Bethlehem. Since the deadly attacks led by Hamas on southern Israel during October 2023 that sparked the war, many thousands of Palestinian workers from the West Bank have been blocked from entering Israel and Israeli settlements to work.
Meanwhile, government employees have received only partial salaries from the Palestinian Authority (PA) – which governs parts of the West Bank. The PA relies on tax revenues gathered by Israel, which it is withholding – amounting to 1.76 billion dollars, as reported by a UN agency.
Israel says it is holding these funds because the PA makes payments to Palestinian prisoners that encourage violence against Israelis. The PA – facing international pressure to make reforms – says it has lately modified its welfare system.
An Austere Holiday
The grim economic outlook implies that for numerous Palestinian Christians, even though there are currently public festivities as well as religious services, it will constitute an austere Christmas.
On the periphery of Manger Square, a few customers wait to purchase hot balls of falafel from a row of shops.
"We're preparing for Christmas after one of our hardest periods as a Palestinian people and as a Christian community," says Alaa Salameh, who runs Afteem, a decades-old family restaurant which has seen its income plummet. He says lately many families could not even purchase falafel – a cheap, traditional snack.
"The faithful will attempt to mark the occasion but according to their circumstances," Mr Salameh expects. "An individual wishing to take his kids to a festival or the theatre or whatever, they lack the money to spend for this celebration."
Prayers for Calm and Recovery
In the cave-like grotto beneath the church, a local woman follows a small Indian tour group, stooping down by a silver star which marks the spot where it is said that Jesus was born and lighting a light close by.
Amid ongoing high tensions throughout the area, Bethlehem residents say they are praying for peace – and hoping for visitors to return to the place where it is believed Christmas began.
